In the Spring of 2014, our friends, Karen and Mike Myers, invited us to join them on a trip to the Holy Land. We chose a trip from National Geographic after researching a number of travel options. The NatGeo trip offered, not only visits to the holy sites, but a significant focus on the current state of affairs in Israel and Palestine.
We chose wisely because this travel experience was unlike any we had had before. Not only did we see the holy sites and visit several cities in Israel, we had the opportunity to hear from 14 different individuals as well as our three guides: Aziz Abu Sarah, a Jerusalem Palestinian; Yuval Ben Ami , an Israeli; and Husam Jubran, a West Bank Palestinian. If we had only heard their stories, it would have been sufficient, but we heard the stories of a wide and diverse group of people over the course of our 11 day trip.
We have traveled to many parts of the world and consider ourselves seasoned travelers. Yet nothing prepared us for the impact of this trip. The many and diverse narratives; the need for our guides to leave our bus when we were entering parts of the country prohibited to one of them; the reality of a concrete wall separating Palestinian from Israeli--all of this and more brought home the reality of life in a Divided Land.
After departing Israel, we visited for Istanbul for four days and there we also visited holy sites and enjoyed a cooking class in the home of our Turkish guide, Gokcen Art.
Sunday, December 27, 2015
The Holy Sites
We arrived in Jerusalem two days before the start of our tour. We joined Karen and Mike who had hired a private guide, Bashira, and visited three churches by 20th century Italian architect, Antonio Bellucci: the Church of Dominius Flevit, on the Mount of Olives, shaped like a teardrop; the Church of the Lord's Prayer, where the prayer appears on wall plaques written in 171 different languages; and the Church of the Agony in the Garden on Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed before being arrested. Visiting these churches also allowed us to see much of Jerusalem, with the Old City, and its prominent Dome of the Rock, home to Al Aqsa Mosque, the third most important site in Islam, prominent from many vantage points.
We also visited the Church of Lazarus in Bethany on the West Bank, driving for the first time into the "occupied territories," where electricity is provided only a few hours a day, water only a few days a month and trash rarely picked up. It truly looked like no-man's land, yet it was the home of one of our guides, where he is raising a family with three small children.
Driving back from Bethany, we passed by Jericho and stopped to view the wilderness, where Jesus was tempted by the Devil. It was one of the more impactful sites to me. I could really visualize Jesus walked over the barren hills. How easily one could be tempted with water, much less control of the whole world, in that barren place.
The first day of the NatGeo tour, we visited the Old City of Jerusalem and the Wailing Wall, as well as, the Church of the Holy Sepluchre, considered the site of Jesus' tomb. Ancient and under restoration, it was well attended the day we visited, despite renewed violence in the Old City. Our guides were very careful to ensure our safety. While I never felt at risk, it was clear that the average Israeli and Palestinian did.
The Nativity Church, in Bethlehem, also on the West Bank, was a mob scene the day we visited with a six hour wait to see the crypt, believed to be the site of Jesus' birth. We were divided into small groups and turned over to local guides who have precedence over big groups. The space in the crypt could not have been more than ten feet square and dozens of pilgrims were pushing and shoving their way closer to the birth site. Clearly, this site drew the most visitors but was also the most difficult to manage, and, perhaps, for that reason, the least impactful for me.
The Church of the Annunciation, in Nazareth, is believed to be the site where the angel appeared to Mary. It is a contemporary church that features dozens of mosaics of Mary from the various countries of the world. It was my favorite church, multi-leveled with both ancient and current structures.
We also visited the Church of Lazarus in Bethany on the West Bank, driving for the first time into the "occupied territories," where electricity is provided only a few hours a day, water only a few days a month and trash rarely picked up. It truly looked like no-man's land, yet it was the home of one of our guides, where he is raising a family with three small children.
Driving back from Bethany, we passed by Jericho and stopped to view the wilderness, where Jesus was tempted by the Devil. It was one of the more impactful sites to me. I could really visualize Jesus walked over the barren hills. How easily one could be tempted with water, much less control of the whole world, in that barren place.
The Nativity Church, in Bethlehem, also on the West Bank, was a mob scene the day we visited with a six hour wait to see the crypt, believed to be the site of Jesus' birth. We were divided into small groups and turned over to local guides who have precedence over big groups. The space in the crypt could not have been more than ten feet square and dozens of pilgrims were pushing and shoving their way closer to the birth site. Clearly, this site drew the most visitors but was also the most difficult to manage, and, perhaps, for that reason, the least impactful for me.
The Church of the Annunciation, in Nazareth, is believed to be the site where the angel appeared to Mary. It is a contemporary church that features dozens of mosaics of Mary from the various countries of the world. It was my favorite church, multi-leveled with both ancient and current structures.
The Land
Israel is a country about the size of New Jersey, bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, and the countries of Egypt, Jordan, Syria and Lebanon. Six million Jews reside in Israel from the secular Jew to the ultra-religious. The latter do not go to school, do not work, do not serve in the military and live on government subsidies. Palestinians comprise an additional 1.7 million people who live in the Gaza Strip or the West Bank.
Getting around should be easy for everyone with Israel's well constructed roadways but movement, for some, is not easy. The average Palestinian must daily pass through check points, wait in long lines and, often, get permission from the Israeli military before venturing into Israel proper. Our West Bank guide had to leave our bus and travel around areas that we could go through, but he could not, before re-joining our group. Had he been found on our bus, at those times, he could have been imprisoned. Conversely, when we entered the West Bank, our Israeli guide was prohibited from entry. He stayed on the bus believing he would look like a tourist if the bus was stopped. Only once were we boarded and searched. Nothing was found amiss.
Different levels of access (and citizenship) apply to Palestinians. Those that were living in the new state of Israel in 1948 were made full citizens. Their heirs remain so today. Palestinians who live in East Jerusalem have more freedom of movement than those who live on the West Bank. Nonetheless, for the average Palestinian, freedom of movement is quite restricted.
The two principal cities in Israel are Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Their metropolitan areas extend out so far, in both directions, that it is not clear where one stops and the other starts. It took us 45 minutes, by taxi, to get from the airport in Tel Aviv to our hotel in Jerusalem. These cities have lots of trees and vegetation but the desert is never far. The Sea of Galilee, where we had a sea cruise, was especially lovely with the Mount of Beatitudes in the distance.
We also visited the Dead Sea where we floated on the salty water and dabbed ourselves with Dead Sea mud, reputedly a cure all. I was selective and John went all out. While at the Dead Sea, we stayed at a kibbutz, an early form of Jewish settlement, based on the Russian commune model, where participants live and work collectively. Today's kibbutz has been highly privatized and are far less communal with some private ownership apparent. Nonetheless, young Israelis continue to join them.
We dipped our feet in the River Jordan where numerous tourists were present to be baptized. We walked Herod's hilltop fortress at Masada where the ancient structure, still apparent in large part, was the historic sight of the Jew's last stand against the Romans. We also visited Jericho, Bethlehem, Capernaum and Nazareth.
The "occupied territories," where we visited holy sites, met with government officials and had dinner at the home of our tour leader, include the West Bank, originally Jordanian land, and the Gaza Strip, originally Egyptian land, both lost in the 1967 Six Day War, as well as, the Golon Heights. Dinner was a rice and chicken dish called, "Upside Down." Dancing followed to traditional music.
Apart from of the lack of services, the military occupation and confiscation of Palestinian properties, the most serious problem in the "occupied territories" is the Jewish settlements. These were first built in 1995 and were a strategy by Ariel Sharon to avoid a two-state solution to the occupation. There are 300,000 Israelis living in 121 settlements in the "occupied territories" which offer lovely housing, good schools, complete shopping centers, and public services 24/7, all subsidized by the Israeli government. The international community considers the settlements to be illegal, a violation of the Geneva Accords. The Israelis disagree. The settlements are often built immediately next to a Palestinian city, such as Bethlehem. In recent years, a 16' concrete wall has been constructed around the West Bank with special "settler roads" that allow Israelis easy access to and from--no checkpoints.
We were cautioned by our guides to maintain a balanced perspective regarding the conflict. They worked very hard to present a balanced perspective and to ensure we heard multiple narratives. It is important to keep in mind that it was the Arab nations that attacked Israel in 1948; that Palestine has never had strong leadership; that Israel justifiably fears its neighbors and anti-semitism in the world and that, as currently configured, the West Bank and Gaza represent threats. Despite its justifications, Israel is clearly the more powerful of the two and the settlement intrusions have not strengthened ownership of the higher ground.
Getting around should be easy for everyone with Israel's well constructed roadways but movement, for some, is not easy. The average Palestinian must daily pass through check points, wait in long lines and, often, get permission from the Israeli military before venturing into Israel proper. Our West Bank guide had to leave our bus and travel around areas that we could go through, but he could not, before re-joining our group. Had he been found on our bus, at those times, he could have been imprisoned. Conversely, when we entered the West Bank, our Israeli guide was prohibited from entry. He stayed on the bus believing he would look like a tourist if the bus was stopped. Only once were we boarded and searched. Nothing was found amiss.
Different levels of access (and citizenship) apply to Palestinians. Those that were living in the new state of Israel in 1948 were made full citizens. Their heirs remain so today. Palestinians who live in East Jerusalem have more freedom of movement than those who live on the West Bank. Nonetheless, for the average Palestinian, freedom of movement is quite restricted.
The two principal cities in Israel are Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Their metropolitan areas extend out so far, in both directions, that it is not clear where one stops and the other starts. It took us 45 minutes, by taxi, to get from the airport in Tel Aviv to our hotel in Jerusalem. These cities have lots of trees and vegetation but the desert is never far. The Sea of Galilee, where we had a sea cruise, was especially lovely with the Mount of Beatitudes in the distance.
We also visited the Dead Sea where we floated on the salty water and dabbed ourselves with Dead Sea mud, reputedly a cure all. I was selective and John went all out. While at the Dead Sea, we stayed at a kibbutz, an early form of Jewish settlement, based on the Russian commune model, where participants live and work collectively. Today's kibbutz has been highly privatized and are far less communal with some private ownership apparent. Nonetheless, young Israelis continue to join them.
We dipped our feet in the River Jordan where numerous tourists were present to be baptized. We walked Herod's hilltop fortress at Masada where the ancient structure, still apparent in large part, was the historic sight of the Jew's last stand against the Romans. We also visited Jericho, Bethlehem, Capernaum and Nazareth.
The "occupied territories," where we visited holy sites, met with government officials and had dinner at the home of our tour leader, include the West Bank, originally Jordanian land, and the Gaza Strip, originally Egyptian land, both lost in the 1967 Six Day War, as well as, the Golon Heights. Dinner was a rice and chicken dish called, "Upside Down." Dancing followed to traditional music.
Apart from of the lack of services, the military occupation and confiscation of Palestinian properties, the most serious problem in the "occupied territories" is the Jewish settlements. These were first built in 1995 and were a strategy by Ariel Sharon to avoid a two-state solution to the occupation. There are 300,000 Israelis living in 121 settlements in the "occupied territories" which offer lovely housing, good schools, complete shopping centers, and public services 24/7, all subsidized by the Israeli government. The international community considers the settlements to be illegal, a violation of the Geneva Accords. The Israelis disagree. The settlements are often built immediately next to a Palestinian city, such as Bethlehem. In recent years, a 16' concrete wall has been constructed around the West Bank with special "settler roads" that allow Israelis easy access to and from--no checkpoints.
We were cautioned by our guides to maintain a balanced perspective regarding the conflict. They worked very hard to present a balanced perspective and to ensure we heard multiple narratives. It is important to keep in mind that it was the Arab nations that attacked Israel in 1948; that Palestine has never had strong leadership; that Israel justifiably fears its neighbors and anti-semitism in the world and that, as currently configured, the West Bank and Gaza represent threats. Despite its justifications, Israel is clearly the more powerful of the two and the settlement intrusions have not strengthened ownership of the higher ground.
The Narratives
This trip's focus was the meetings we held with a number of folks: high ranking government officials--both Israeli and Palestinian, religious leaders, NGO workers and ordinary citizens. With few exceptions, the speakers were candid and open and, in the case of several of the Palestinian meetings, clearly quite angry. It is important to say that just before, and during, our visit to Israel renewed violence had broken out, largely between individuals, on both sides, with no evidence of any sort of organized effort nor any violence against tourists. Driving this, initially, was the limitations imposed on Muslin worshippers at the Al Aqsa Mosque in the Old City of Jerusalem, the third holiest site in Islam.
All of our speakers were directly or indirectly touched by the violence. After listening to only a few, it was apparent that the middle east conflict is quite complex and heavily nuanced. A good deal depends on your point of view and personal experience. The Palestinian point of view is quite colored by the military occupation of their homeland. The Israeli point of view is heaving colored by the Holocaust, anti-semitism and their belief that God promised them this Holy Land.
All of our meetings had impact, along with the daily conversations with our guides, but a few stand out:
Dr. Rabbi Daniel Roth, an American Israeli, is the Director of the Pardes Center for Judaism and Conflict Resolution, who has lived in Jerusalem since 1990. Rabbi Roth's presentation focused on parsing "Love thy neighbor as thyself." Is it all neighbors or only neighbors who look and believe the same? Rabbi Roth clearly preferred a broader definition but spoke to the more narrow definition perceived by many. He also spoke of his personal concerns for safety and the safety of his children.
Iman Yusuf Abu Sneineh is the cleric responsible for administration at Al Aqsa Mosque. Just as Rabbi Roth was visibly shaken, Iman Sneineh was clearly angry. Muslims feel entitled to worship at Al Aqsa, just as Israelis feel entitled to pray at the wailing wall. He felt, quite strongly, that the limitations on Muslims seeking access to Al Aqsa, was a serious threat to religious freedom.
Mrs. Gilat Baram works in the Israeli diplomatic service. She is Director of Palestinian Affairs and Regional Cooperation. Our lead guide, a Jerusalem Palestinian, knew her well and respected her. She was clearly limited in her candor by being part of the current Israeli government. She deplored the violence, could see both sides of it, but was also concerned for the safety of her young son. She did her best to put a good face on the Israeli right to security but, I believe, recognized that was often at the expense of Palestinian's freedom of movement and access to services.
Mr. Husam S. Zomlot was Executive Deputy Commissioner, Fatah Commission for International Relations, the number two executive at the equivalent of our State Department for Palestinians. Fatah is the more moderate of the parties representing the Palestinians; the other being Hamas, described as "terrorists" or "less moderate," depending on who is speaking. Mr. Zomlot was previously a professor at the University of London and at Harvard, as well as, an employee of the UN. His background focuses on peacemaking. He, too, was quite angry but more balanced than one would expect. He certainly cast the Israelis as the bad guys but would agree that the Palestinian leadership has not always acted in the best interests of their people. At 44, he looked liked he might have a future as a significant Palestinian leader if the current 80 year-old leadership could make way for a younger leader.
Mrs. Rena Quint was a Holocaust survivor. She spoke to us on the day we visited Yad Vasem, the Holocaust museum. She was a very young child at Bergen-Beisen when it was liberated. She was ultimately adopted by a Jewish family in the States. She told a harrowing story of being rounded up with others in her neighborhood, taken from her parents, who she never saw again. In the camp, she passed from "mother" to "mother" as the women protecting her died. Once rescued, she was found to be seriously ill. She recovered and went on to have what she described as a "good life."
Mr. Oded Revivi was mayor of Efrat, the Jewish settlement in the "occupied territories" closest to Bethlehem. He was an attorney and former tank commander. A no-nonsence guy, I thought he spoke frankly. When asked if could ever see Israel disbanding the settlement movement, he said he could, that he was in Israel because he had freedoms there, such as the freedom to seek a certain kind of education for his children, that he would not have elsewhere. Yet, he was also a committed member of the settlement movement.
We also visited Ein Gedi kibbutz where a long-term resident spoke to us about the kibbutz movement, brought to Israel from Russia, when Israel was in its infancy. The communal kibbutz allowed disparate folks to live and work together to build the new country. The moment has changed a good deal over the years but still exists, albeit with a bit of individual ownership and privatization.
Kamal, a retired Druze member of the Israeli police, spoke to us over lunch at his home. The Druze are a sect of Islam and known to be fierce warriors, due, at least in part to their belief in reincarnation. Kamal and his wife, Salma, had lost two sons to the Israeli/Palestinian conflict many years ago. Still quite sad, Kamal focused on the need for peace and understanding among all peoples. A member of the Bereaved Families network, he spoke about loss on both sides and the need for bereaved parents to come together in forgiveness. His presentation was deeply affecting.
Our last speaker was Dr. Beverly Goodman, a geo-archaeologist working at the Harbor at Caesarea, which she believed her been destroyed in ancient times by a tsunami. Her physical findings support written records of the times. She walked us along the shoreline of her dive sites and explained how she and her team worked.
We constantly marveled at the reach and extent of the network that our guides, Husam Jubran, Yuval Ben Ami and Aziz Abu Sarah, were able to access. We were blessed by their camaraderie and their ability to speak frankly and from the heart.
All of our speakers were directly or indirectly touched by the violence. After listening to only a few, it was apparent that the middle east conflict is quite complex and heavily nuanced. A good deal depends on your point of view and personal experience. The Palestinian point of view is quite colored by the military occupation of their homeland. The Israeli point of view is heaving colored by the Holocaust, anti-semitism and their belief that God promised them this Holy Land.
All of our meetings had impact, along with the daily conversations with our guides, but a few stand out:
Dr. Rabbi Daniel Roth, an American Israeli, is the Director of the Pardes Center for Judaism and Conflict Resolution, who has lived in Jerusalem since 1990. Rabbi Roth's presentation focused on parsing "Love thy neighbor as thyself." Is it all neighbors or only neighbors who look and believe the same? Rabbi Roth clearly preferred a broader definition but spoke to the more narrow definition perceived by many. He also spoke of his personal concerns for safety and the safety of his children.
Iman Yusuf Abu Sneineh is the cleric responsible for administration at Al Aqsa Mosque. Just as Rabbi Roth was visibly shaken, Iman Sneineh was clearly angry. Muslims feel entitled to worship at Al Aqsa, just as Israelis feel entitled to pray at the wailing wall. He felt, quite strongly, that the limitations on Muslims seeking access to Al Aqsa, was a serious threat to religious freedom.
Mrs. Gilat Baram works in the Israeli diplomatic service. She is Director of Palestinian Affairs and Regional Cooperation. Our lead guide, a Jerusalem Palestinian, knew her well and respected her. She was clearly limited in her candor by being part of the current Israeli government. She deplored the violence, could see both sides of it, but was also concerned for the safety of her young son. She did her best to put a good face on the Israeli right to security but, I believe, recognized that was often at the expense of Palestinian's freedom of movement and access to services.
Mr. Husam S. Zomlot was Executive Deputy Commissioner, Fatah Commission for International Relations, the number two executive at the equivalent of our State Department for Palestinians. Fatah is the more moderate of the parties representing the Palestinians; the other being Hamas, described as "terrorists" or "less moderate," depending on who is speaking. Mr. Zomlot was previously a professor at the University of London and at Harvard, as well as, an employee of the UN. His background focuses on peacemaking. He, too, was quite angry but more balanced than one would expect. He certainly cast the Israelis as the bad guys but would agree that the Palestinian leadership has not always acted in the best interests of their people. At 44, he looked liked he might have a future as a significant Palestinian leader if the current 80 year-old leadership could make way for a younger leader.
Mrs. Rena Quint was a Holocaust survivor. She spoke to us on the day we visited Yad Vasem, the Holocaust museum. She was a very young child at Bergen-Beisen when it was liberated. She was ultimately adopted by a Jewish family in the States. She told a harrowing story of being rounded up with others in her neighborhood, taken from her parents, who she never saw again. In the camp, she passed from "mother" to "mother" as the women protecting her died. Once rescued, she was found to be seriously ill. She recovered and went on to have what she described as a "good life."
Mr. Oded Revivi was mayor of Efrat, the Jewish settlement in the "occupied territories" closest to Bethlehem. He was an attorney and former tank commander. A no-nonsence guy, I thought he spoke frankly. When asked if could ever see Israel disbanding the settlement movement, he said he could, that he was in Israel because he had freedoms there, such as the freedom to seek a certain kind of education for his children, that he would not have elsewhere. Yet, he was also a committed member of the settlement movement.
We also visited Ein Gedi kibbutz where a long-term resident spoke to us about the kibbutz movement, brought to Israel from Russia, when Israel was in its infancy. The communal kibbutz allowed disparate folks to live and work together to build the new country. The moment has changed a good deal over the years but still exists, albeit with a bit of individual ownership and privatization.
Kamal, a retired Druze member of the Israeli police, spoke to us over lunch at his home. The Druze are a sect of Islam and known to be fierce warriors, due, at least in part to their belief in reincarnation. Kamal and his wife, Salma, had lost two sons to the Israeli/Palestinian conflict many years ago. Still quite sad, Kamal focused on the need for peace and understanding among all peoples. A member of the Bereaved Families network, he spoke about loss on both sides and the need for bereaved parents to come together in forgiveness. His presentation was deeply affecting.
Our last speaker was Dr. Beverly Goodman, a geo-archaeologist working at the Harbor at Caesarea, which she believed her been destroyed in ancient times by a tsunami. Her physical findings support written records of the times. She walked us along the shoreline of her dive sites and explained how she and her team worked.
We constantly marveled at the reach and extent of the network that our guides, Husam Jubran, Yuval Ben Ami and Aziz Abu Sarah, were able to access. We were blessed by their camaraderie and their ability to speak frankly and from the heart.
If This Were Israel
Trying to understand the current situation in Israel is very difficult, even when you are up close and personal with it. I thought I'd try an analogy...admittedly, it is a bit far-fetched, but it may improve an understanding of the basic situation on the ground.
The Occupied Territory of Michigan following the War with Canada
"The war had been brief, but intense. The United States had been completely unprepared for an attack by Canada. After the dust had settled, the states of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota had been captured by the Canadians. The citizens of those states were now inhabitants of the no-man's land of the "occupied territories."
The Canadians set about reinforcing defenses along its new border with the US; disarmed all inhabitants of the "occupied territories," and shut down access to the internet, as well as other forms of communication. A police force of residents was created to keep their neighbors in line.
Occasional skirmishes between Canadians and state inhabitants led the Canadians to limit freedom of movement (all movement within and across the "occupied territories" requires Canadian military approval); access to electricity (only two hours twice a day); and access to water (four times a month). Any Michigan inhabitants found to be working against the Canadians, either directly or indirectly, had their homes demolished. The debris was left to serve as a deterrent for others.
When unrest persisted in the "occupied territories," a 16' concrete wall was constructed around each state and around significant urban centers within each. The Canadians, pressured by the UN and World Court, to allow more freedoms for residents of the former United States, responded by building Canadian settlements. In the quaint village of Frankfort, a settlement was constructed on what was once the Crystal Down Country Club golf course and another along the north shore of Crystal Lake. Homes were confiscated from their prior owners as a measure to address the national security concerns of the Canadians.
While the former US residents banded together and sought internal leadership, they were never blessed with strong and thoughtful leaders. Rather, given to in-fighting and corruption, these leaders were not able to make much of a difference for their people.
Normally considered to be a peaceful people, the Canadians were increasingly under pressure from countries around the world to disband the settlements and provide greater freedoms for the "occupied territory" residents. All requests were rebuffed by the Canadian government who expressed deep fear of the remaining United States and Canada's need to defend itself.
Recently, France introduced a resolution at the UN granting the "occupied territories" observer status, a first step to full recognition. Many former citizens of the US are hopeful that the UN will end the occupation.
The Occupied Territory of Michigan following the War with Canada
"The war had been brief, but intense. The United States had been completely unprepared for an attack by Canada. After the dust had settled, the states of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota had been captured by the Canadians. The citizens of those states were now inhabitants of the no-man's land of the "occupied territories."
The Canadians set about reinforcing defenses along its new border with the US; disarmed all inhabitants of the "occupied territories," and shut down access to the internet, as well as other forms of communication. A police force of residents was created to keep their neighbors in line.
Occasional skirmishes between Canadians and state inhabitants led the Canadians to limit freedom of movement (all movement within and across the "occupied territories" requires Canadian military approval); access to electricity (only two hours twice a day); and access to water (four times a month). Any Michigan inhabitants found to be working against the Canadians, either directly or indirectly, had their homes demolished. The debris was left to serve as a deterrent for others.
When unrest persisted in the "occupied territories," a 16' concrete wall was constructed around each state and around significant urban centers within each. The Canadians, pressured by the UN and World Court, to allow more freedoms for residents of the former United States, responded by building Canadian settlements. In the quaint village of Frankfort, a settlement was constructed on what was once the Crystal Down Country Club golf course and another along the north shore of Crystal Lake. Homes were confiscated from their prior owners as a measure to address the national security concerns of the Canadians.
While the former US residents banded together and sought internal leadership, they were never blessed with strong and thoughtful leaders. Rather, given to in-fighting and corruption, these leaders were not able to make much of a difference for their people.
Normally considered to be a peaceful people, the Canadians were increasingly under pressure from countries around the world to disband the settlements and provide greater freedoms for the "occupied territory" residents. All requests were rebuffed by the Canadian government who expressed deep fear of the remaining United States and Canada's need to defend itself.
Recently, France introduced a resolution at the UN granting the "occupied territories" observer status, a first step to full recognition. Many former citizens of the US are hopeful that the UN will end the occupation.
Postscript--Istanbul
After eleven days in Israel, we flew home and lingered, on-route, for four days in Istanbul. Istanbul is a city of 18 million people living at what has been the crossroads of civilzation. Our hotel, in a suburban business district, was a good 45 minute cab ride from the historic district downtown. During the four days we were there, it rained almost all the time. The weather was a good deal cooler than Israel and getting around proved to be challenging. There had also been reports of violence in Turkey, similar to those in Israel, driven primarily by the Kurdish minority group. While we were in Istanbul, the group had sworn off of violence in light of the upcoming Turkish elections. They feared votes being cast for the current administration rather than the Kurds running for office. Their fears seemed warranted since the current administration won the November 1 ballot handily.
Despite the distance, we made our way into the historic center on our first full day, where we visited Topkapi Palace, the residence of Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years; the Cisterns, public baths in a cavern under the city which featured in a James Bond movie and the Egyptian Market, where spice and
Despite the distance, we made our way into the historic center on our first full day, where we visited Topkapi Palace, the residence of Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years; the Cisterns, public baths in a cavern under the city which featured in a James Bond movie and the Egyptian Market, where spice and candy vendors abound. While we were in the downtown corridor, we heard what we thought was a demonstration that we shied away from. We later learned it was in celebration of a national holiday.
On our second full day, we met with a guide, Gokcen Art, who was a friend of Aziz, our lead guide from Israel. She took us to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar and Chora Church. The Blue Mosque is one of the most visited mosques in the world. Its interior, free of images of people or animals, was heavy on islamic calligraphy and intense with visitors. We waited in line over an hour to get in. Hagia Sophia, once a Christian church, is now a museum and considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture.
At the Grand Bazaar, we visited with a friend of the Myers, Murat, from whom we purchased shadow puppets for the grandkids.
Chora Church was a marvel, quite easily our favorite site. Originally built in the 5th century, it was rebuilt many times until the 13th century when the church was recast by a famous architect,Theodore Metochites, whose marvelous frescos remain to this day. Based on the apocryphal books of the Bible, they include figures, like Ann, the mother of Mary, unfamiliar to many Christians. The quality and color of each painting is breath-taking.
On our third full day in Istanbul, we visited the home of our guide for a cooking class. She taught us to prepare yogurt, zucchini, potatoe salad, eggplant, rice and two sauces. It was a lovely morning. We spent the afternoon packing for our return to the States.
Our stop in Istanbul had given us a taste of this famous city that sits partially in Europe and partially in Asia. Turkey, clearly, would be worth a more complete visit.
Despite the distance, we made our way into the historic center on our first full day, where we visited Topkapi Palace, the residence of Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years; the Cisterns, public baths in a cavern under the city which featured in a James Bond movie and the Egyptian Market, where spice and candy vendors abound. While we were in the downtown corridor, we heard what we thought was a demonstration that we shied away from. We later learned it was in celebration of a national holiday.
On our second full day, we met with a guide, Gokcen Art, who was a friend of Aziz, our lead guide from Israel. She took us to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar and Chora Church. The Blue Mosque is one of the most visited mosques in the world. Its interior, free of images of people or animals, was heavy on islamic calligraphy and intense with visitors. We waited in line over an hour to get in. Hagia Sophia, once a Christian church, is now a museum and considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine architecture.
At the Grand Bazaar, we visited with a friend of the Myers, Murat, from whom we purchased shadow puppets for the grandkids.
Chora Church was a marvel, quite easily our favorite site. Originally built in the 5th century, it was rebuilt many times until the 13th century when the church was recast by a famous architect,Theodore Metochites, whose marvelous frescos remain to this day. Based on the apocryphal books of the Bible, they include figures, like Ann, the mother of Mary, unfamiliar to many Christians. The quality and color of each painting is breath-taking.
On our third full day in Istanbul, we visited the home of our guide for a cooking class. She taught us to prepare yogurt, zucchini, potatoe salad, eggplant, rice and two sauces. It was a lovely morning. We spent the afternoon packing for our return to the States.
Our stop in Istanbul had given us a taste of this famous city that sits partially in Europe and partially in Asia. Turkey, clearly, would be worth a more complete visit.
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